Why does this have to end?

When we started our journey down The River, we knew it would end at some point. Our boat pulled into to port as darkness still blanketed our destination city - Belem.

We had spoken so romantically and longingly of this place for so long that it should not have ended this way. There was always Coca - the beginning - and Belem - the end.

Belem was where our adventure culminated. After 4,360 km (2700 mi) of being carried by The River's currents, we would disembark.

We had elevated Coca to a poetic position, despite its petroleum industry-related grime. We had arrived there the day before setting out on The River. We had time to sit on its bank and reflect on what lie ahead of us. The next morning, as the sun was just peeking over the horizon, we set off downstream.

We wanted to do the same with Belem. Our ideal arrival into Belem would have been in the late afternoon. That way the city and its skyline would appear on the distant horizon. As sunset approached on the opposite bank, the buildings would slowly become clearer and clearer until the entire scene built to a crescendo - a spectacular sunset on one bank reflected onto the city. We would triumphantly step off the boat, machetes on our hips, basking in the days last rays of sunshine.

But alas, it was not meant to be.

We were awoken at 3:30 a.m. to the noises of rustling and milling about. I was told that we were arriving Belem. No, this can't be. It's much too early. I'm not going to be able to city come into focus over the horizon. Heck, the rain flaps are down. I can't even see where we are going.  

We arrived at the docks in Belem and were rushed off the boat by the crew. We walked down the gangways in pitch black and settled on some benches in the terminal, awaiting the day's first lights to be able to safely walk to our hostel.


In many ways, it was the opposite of what we had hoped for. Instead of sunset, we arrived before dawn. Instead of taking our time and stepping off the boat in triumph, we were rushed off the boat. Instead of wearing our machetes on our hips, we strapped them securely to our backpacks.


We had observed a medium-sized river snake its way across a continent, slowly growing in size until we could barely see the banks. Only at the end, when we were in the midst of the delta, did we get good look at the jungle shoreline again.


We waited an hour or so until we felt comfortable enough to go our hostel. As if to welcome us to civilization after weeks on the water, the city lit up with a brilliant red sunrise.

And with that, our time on The River came to a close. What started on the docks in Coca finally came to an end at The River's mouth on the Atlantic coast. 

We spent the rest of the day basking in the glow of our achievement. 

Belem has a famous market, Ver-o-Peso, where we sampled jungle fruits.

We took in some of the sights of Old Belem, including this church from the 17th century.

We were in Belem for the celebration of Sao Joao, which is another reasons for Brazilians to dance and have a street party.

This guy walked around that street party with a tray full of charcoals and a box full of cheese. He was an ambling, roasted cheese salesmen. Do you think there is potential for the ambling s'more guy?

We capped off the evening with a visit to the Estacao das Docas brewery where Avery sampled some of the local beers. They make four different beers, one of which was called The River. Although it didn´t live up to his standards, it was a fitting way to finish out time on The River.