Blueberries in Ecuador?

The blueberry is one of my favorite fruits.

During blueberry season in the States, I binge - which is very good for my immune system but also causes a lot of stains on my clothes.

Last October, I learned that blueberries do grow in Ecuador, but that blueberry season only lasts two days. This makes for some very concentrated binging.



On November 2nd, Ecuadorians commemorate Dia de Los Difuntos (Dia de los Muertos or Day of the Day). It is a holiday in which families go to the cemetery to spend time with the loved ones they have lost.

One of the traditions associated with this holiday is a special beverage called colada morada. It is a brew made of naranilla (little orange cousin), blackberry, blueberry, flour, cinnamon, cloves, lemongrass, arayan, and a variety of other locally available fruits and spices. It is served either hot or cold and often eaten with gingerbread men.

Because blueberries are one of the main ingredients in this beverage, one can find blueberry at the market in the days leading up to the holiday. There is nothing the rest of the year.

On Friday, I bought two bags of blueberries and another one this afternoon. I put them all in my freezer (still working) with plans to make muffins and other baked goodness with them.

Although blueberries do grow wildly in Arenillas, they are very rare. I knew of one person with a blueberry plant in her house and my other friend claims to know of a couple others. According to the woman at the market, the blueberries that she buys come from Ambato in the mountains, which is where most of the berries in Ecuador come from.

Don Maximo and my fridge

Refrigerators are supposed to create cold.

At the end of July, my refrigerator decided to stop producing a low-temperature environment and decided to produce noise, room temperature gas, and plenty of blog material.

While everybody likes blog material, that's not exactly what I look for in a refrigerator. So I sent it off to my refrigerator repairman, who told me that he would fix it within a week.

My fridge finally returned to my kitchen this week.

My repairman has a reputation for being the best in town. That says a lot more about his competition than his competency (or reliability or professionalism).

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Don Diego is the name of a hallucinogenic plant native to this part of South America. It is also my repairman's name.

Is that just coincidence?

Yes. (But that doesn't mean it's not funny)

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This was my third occasion when I needed Don Diego's technical skills. The first time he fixed my fridge in four days, and it worked for three months. The next time, he spent a couple of afternoons working on my fridge, and it worked for a couple of afternoons.

This time, he told me that he wanted to patch up a hole that was causing the gas to leak out.

Each time my fridge breaks I have this conversation with Don Diego.

Ian: Can you fix my fridge?
Don Diego: Yes.
Ian: Tell me the truth. Because if you can't fix my fridge, I'll go buy one that works.
Don Diego: No, I can fix it. Don't worry. I'll get it done.

---

One of my friend's is Don Diego's nephew. After spending a few years at the university, he moved back to Arenillas and was in the market for a fridge. He asked his uncle if he knew of anybody with an extra fridge.

His uncle told him not to worry because there was one in his shop for a long time because the owners never came back to pick it up.

My friend plugged it in and realized that the fridge was still broken. The reason the owners had never picked it up is because the repairman had never fixed it. My friend brought it back to his uncle, and only a few months later did he have a functioning fridge in his apartment.

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When Don Diego told me that the fridge would be ready in a week, I knew that it would take longer. I've lived in Ecuador long enough to expect that. (If you can't find this stuff hilarious, you would probably go insane.)

When it wasn't ready the first week, he explained that he identified the gas leak and would order a new part from the factory to patch it up. He said he would get it to me by Friday, at the latest (or maximo el viernes)

When that week passed, he said that there were so many holes in the back panel that he had to replace the panel. Maximo el viernes.

I came back the next week. He said he was so busy with other projects that he didn't have time. Maximo el viernes.

After patching the hole, he realized that the machine needed a new filter. He didn't have the right piece and would have to go to Machala to pick it up. Maximo el viernes.

He went off to go visit his daughter at university and stayed there four days longer than he planned. Maximo el viernes.

Before leaving, he plugged to fridge in to see if it would stay cold throughout his trip. It didn't. He would have to spend more time filling the holes. Maximo el viernes.

He plugged it in again and realized there were still more holes. Maximo el viernes.

After filling all the holes, he noticed that another aluminum piece needed to be replaced. He couldn't get the piece locally. Maximo el viernes.

He went to visit his daughter again. Maximo el viernes.

He discovered more holes upon his return. Maximo el viernes.

Before you know it, three months passed, and I still didn't have a fridge.

Last week, started the same as any other. I went to Don Diego's house on Monday morning to check in on the fridge and hear whatever excuse he had that week. He told me that he was going to plug in the fridge. If it ran well for a few days, he would get it back to my house.

I came back to his house on Wednesday. He said it was working well. He just wanted to make sure that it would keep working and told me to come back on Thursday.

No one was home on Thursday.

On Friday, his wife told me that the fridge was still working well. She said that her husband would be home around 5:00 and that she would tell him to send the fridge back to my house as soon as he got home. At 6:00 there was still no fridge in my kitchen. I went back to their home. His wife told me that he wasn't back from work yet.

Early Saturday afternoon I was back at their door. He told me he would run one last test on the machine and that he would bring it by my house Sunday.

I went to his house Sunday morning, and he told me he would bring it by later in the day. I said that if it isn't at my house by 6:00, I would ring be ringing his doorbell at 6:00.

I rang his doorbell at 6:00 and woke him up from his siesta. He told me that he had to get ready for mass because he sings in the church choir but that he would bring it by my house afterward.

At 8:45, he finally pulled up to my house with the fridge in tow. We plugged it in and heard some gentle humming and felt some cool air in the freezer.

And finally, after three months, the my fridge was back in my kitchen.

The real question is whether or not he actually fixed it. Hopefully, that's not the subject of another blog post.

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Now a few thoughts on the whole "repair" process:

• Do I actually believe that he looked at my fridge that many times as many times as he claims to have? No.

• As I told some of my Ecuadorian friends about my refrigerator saga they began referring to Don Diego as Don Maximo Viernes.

• One would think that after three months of disappointment, I would be mad a my repairman. I'm not. Maybe this a case of integration (or assimilation) but I'm still friends with Don Diego.

• Stay tuned for another post that talks about life without a fridge.

Shield vs. broomstick

About a month ago, I wrote about how important Flag Day is in Ecuador.



For all of its pageantry, Dia de la bandera only celebrated the flag's three color bands. It did not celebrate the shield. I wondered whether there was a day to honor the shield.

It turns out that there is.

The Ecuadorian Congress approved the national shield on the flag on October 31, 1900 in the government of Eloy Alfaro. The shield image was originally designed by Jose Joaquin Olmedo, a former Ecuadorian president, in 1845. It contains symbolic images of Ecuadorian national heritage and the zodiac signs from March, April, May, and June.

Little did that congress know what kind of global phenomenon Halloween would become. Although Halloween is an American holiday, Ecuadorians have taken to the idea of dressing up in costumes and going to parties.

The government and school system, however, have not embraced it quite as enthusiastically. At the beginning of October, I began reading official pronouncements in the newspapers that schools and high schools will observe Day of the Shield. They will hold civic moments to commemorate the day and will be prohibited from having Halloween parades or parties.

I understand where the government is coming from on this one. Furthermore, there is enough attention given to Halloween in society here that the educational system doesn't need to promote it as much as it should preserve the national cultural heritage.

This school ban on Halloween won't stop the discos from having their big Halloween parties. Or will they be National Shield parties?

My only question is: How many people will show up dressed as the shield?

Hazy memory

I was talking to a high school teacher last week about the weather. Talking about the weather in Arenillas isn't the most exciting subject, but it is something to talk about. It was a misty morning and a little chilly (By local standards, that is. I was still wearing a t-shirt.)

He had been watching the TV and saw something about flooding in the United States. (It's unclear when he was watching the news or what part of the United States was flooded.)

Professor: It floods all the time in the United States
Ian: No, only when it rains really hard, and the water doesn't drain well.
Professor: It never floods here.
Ian: Really?
Professor: Almost never.
Ian: Weren't there lots of floods last year?
Professor: Yes, they were really bad.
Ian: I think a lot of people had to leave their homes and live in schools for a few months.
Professor: I know. It happens like that almost every year.

Fedipedi

Saturday and Sunday mornings are very quiet in Arenillas.

The residents don´t really leave their homes. Some go to church while others make their weekly visit to the market. Besides that everything is relatively tranquilo.

People aren't that interested in doing projects or having meetings or work days on Saturday and Sunday mornings. They just want to take it easy.

This means I have some free time on your hands.

Starting in June, I began using these early mornings for exercise, going for some long runs in and around Arenillas. At first, these runs weren't really building toward any specific goal, except finding a productive use for the 6:30-8:30 time slot.

I looked at a running calendar and saw that the Guayaquil marathon was at the beginning of October. I figured that four months would be enough time to get ready.

Running the marathon had a few motives behind it.

• For a Peace Corps volunteer, it it necessary to lead by example. Many times, community members will complain that a project or a task takes too much time or energy to complete so they won't do it. If there aren't people willing to push themselves or try something different, then very little will change.

Part of my motivation for training was to show the members of my community what one can accomplish if he or she pushes themselves and plans ahead.

• Recreational exercise isn't really taken seriously here. Although there is a small walking/running group that goes out a few times a week and an aerobics class that meets at night in the coliseum, exercise for the sake of better health isn't normal.

• This is my first marathon, and I couldn't imagine a better training story (rabid dogs, speeding semi-trucks, and venomous snakes). The other volunteer in Arenillas participated in the half marathon. She would go for training runs with me during the week. (It's really easy to get out of bed at 6:15 when you know someone will knock at 6:30, ready to run.)

---

The marathon was last week. It was a great experience.

The run was supposed to be October 3rd but the September 30th police strike pushed it back a week. (Don't you just hate when civil unrest ruins your running plans? It sucks.) The new date, October 10th, was the day after Guayaquil's independence day. The city was a circus, not to mention that actual circus that was in town near the bus station.

I imagine that the date change affected the turnout. There were about 700 participants between the three races (10k, half marathon, marathon).




The race began at 5:00 a.m. (Actually, it was supposed to begin at 5:00 but it ended up starting at 5:20 because we are in Ecuador and "on time" has a different meaning). It's normally a bad idea to be milling about Guayaquil at that hour because the city has a reputation for being quite dangerous. But because Guayaquil also has a reputation for being quite warm when the sun is out, organizers opted for the early start so there was less running in the beating heat. It was quite funny in the first few kilometers because parties were still raging from the night before. You could still hear the booming bass from the discos and ran by the circles of drunk men on the sidewalks still passing small glasses of Pilsener.

If I were planning a marathon, I would strategically locate bathrooms along the route. I understand that most runners' systems should be regulated, and therefore the need for a toilet along the route probably wouldn't arise. But sometimes race-day nerves might aggravate it. There are very few establishments open in Guayaquil at 6:15 to let someone freshen up. For that reason, I will be eternally grateful to the restaurant owner who opened his door and took a chance on me. After my pit stop, I was a new man. No one passed me for the rest of the race (27 kilometers).

After I finished the first half, the sun came up. The heat was pretty bad and hovered around 90 degrees from 7:00 a.m. onwards. Luckily, the race organizers anticipated this and placed water stops at every kilometer. I would grab two cups at each stand, take a gulp from each, and dump the remaining contents on my back. It was quite refreshing and probably the best shower I had taken in days.

(One reason I prefer the metric system: if they put water stops at every kilometer, then there are 42 water stops along the route. If they put water stops at every mile, there are only 26 water stops.)

Because there weren't too many participants, the race organizers did not close off the roads to traffic. Instead, there was a police officer stationed at every intersection. Whenever a runner would approach, the officer would stop traffic and allow the runner to pass. This worked out quite well, and it offered the pedestrian some power that he or she rarely enjoys in this society. I only had two issues with this system. Once, three-fourths of the way through the race, I approached an intersection and noticed that the cop had decided to sneak off duty and get himself some breakfast (large plate of rice with a small piece of chicken), therefore leaving his post unattended. I waited for the car to pass and continued on my way. At another intersection, at mile 23, I don't think the cops saw me coming because I though the five lanes of traffic were stopped so I could pass. It turns out they weren't moving because of a red light. As soon as it turned green, I skedaddled across the remaining lanes.

Over the final kilometers, I felt great. I didn't run into any walls or cramps (I hate running into cramps). I just kept on going and finished in 4:32.20. My goal going into the marathon was to finish it. I did my training without a stop watch and had no specific time goals. Overall it was a great success.

The night before the race, the organizing committee offered a free, all-you-can-eat buffet dinner to all the participants. It was at an upscale restaurant and was the second-best meal I have eaten in Ecuador. There were hundreds of different dishes. Anything you could really imagine. The event had been advertised as a "pasta party" so that everyone could carbo-load before the big race. Ironically, about two percent of the dishes at the buffet included pasta, and just one of them was vegetarian. I wasn't too disappointed. I found other filling options.

My advice to anybody in Ecuador at the beginning of October: participate in the Guayaquil Marathon. Race fee includes an awesome buffet, a nice t-shirt, and some great stories. You can sign up for the 10 k, half marathon, or marathon and still get the buffet ticket.

The Mango Solstice

One of the most common conversations I have with Ecuadorians is about seasons.

Because Ecuador is located on the Equator, it only has two seasons. People want to know what it's like to live in a climate that has four seasons.

I tell them that it's pretty great, but nothing compared to the two seasons they get in Ecuador.

Of course we get fall colors and spring blossoms in the States, but, the way I see it, one of Ecuador's seasons far surpasses any that the United States can offer.

Why is that?

Well, for me, the two seasons in Ecuador are Mango Season and NotMango Season. Mango Season refers to the time of year where you can reach into a tree down the street from your house for a big, juicy mango. There is really nothing like it.

Last week, I celebrated the Mango Solstice: the first Ecuadorian mango of the season. It was delicious.

There is always a great variety of locally produced fruits here: oranges, bananas, zapotes, and papayas (and those are just the kinds of fruit trees I can see from my front door). But in my mind, the mango reigns supreme.

The flavor, the juiciness, the experience, and the residue it leaves in your beard/mustache is just something very special.

For the next four or five months, I will be in mango heaven. I shall try to maintain a count for how many mangoes I consume this season. I'm already at five. (I know I've said this before, but I mean it for real this time)

A five-day break?

The last week of September looked as if it would be normal for local municipal workers.

Work Thursday and Friday followed by the weekend and returning to the office on Monday.

It should have been a normal week. Although Arenillas was in the middle of fiestas, there were no planned days off because the biggest days of the celebration fell on Saturday and Sunday.

Instead of a normal week, they put in a half day's work over the five-day period. Let me explain.

Thursday morning was the police strike. Everyone left the office and took the afternoon off.

Friday morning, everyone showed up a little late unsure of what would happen the day after the police strike. After lunch, the city hall was closed because of municipal worker soccer matches between the city council, the municipal workers union, the contracted municipal employees, and the drivers union.

Saturday and Sunday were a weekend.

Monday was a hangover day so that everyone could recover from his or her fiesta rowdiness. All city offices were closed.

That is how one transforms a two-day weekend into a four-and-a-half-day weekend. If you want to take into the account the civil unrest on Thursday and not count that as part of the weekend, you have an unplanned three-and-a-half-day weekend and that half day of work started late and ended early to prepare for the soccer matches.

I sure hope I don't have to go through that again

Before I continue with the blog post, I'll just let you know that everything in my town stayed relatively calm throughout the protests last Thursday. Although most of the activity was concentrated in the major cities, the entire country was on edge. Tensions have eased, and normalcy has returned.

Last Thursday was supposed to be a normal Thursday. I had a full day of work planned. When I left for work in the morning, I was focused on collecting seeds for the tree nursery. When I got home for lunch, I wondered about the stability of society. And just as quickly as my thoughts escalated, I went to bed Thursday night and woke up to a town that showed little evidence of the national crisis it had faced the day before.

No pasa nada, right?

Not quite.

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One of my main projects right now is reforesting the local watershed with 250,000 plants. I like to stress the importance of planting native species to protect the area's biodiversity. Since almost all primary forest has been converted to agricultural use, the largest remaining forest in the area is the local ecological reserve, which is run by the Ecuadorian military.

Now is the season when most species in the area go to flower and give off seeds. I have been trying to coordinate seed collection with the ecological reserve for several months. Like any effort to deal with a large bureaucracy, even trying to do a small amount of work requires a large amount of time and paperwork and frustration.

In the course of this process, they had relocated the ecological base and changed commanding officers. But after months of trying, we had finally arranged to go the reserve on Thursday morning.

We were going to meet at the municipality at 9:00 a.m. and go to the reserve from there. When I arrived, I glanced at the news on the TV and saw some demonstrations but didn't really pay close attention. There are always demonstrations of one sort or another, so I didn't really look to see what was going on.

The army arrived at 9:30 a.m., and we set off for the reserve.

The trail that we used for seed collection is deep in the forest. There is limited cell reception. The entire horizon is covered by dense brush. You feel completely separated from civilization.

As we continued along the trail, they received radio transmissions updating them about the escalating situation. I wasn't in earshot of the radio. All I could pick up was their reaction to each update.

With each message the strike's severity became more clear.

We continued with our seed collection because they didn't have orders to do otherwise. But on the ride back to town, there was an air of doubt and uncertainty about what would happen next.

They were talking about the looting and bank robberies that were occurring because the police were not enforcing the law. Some wondered what this meant for the government's stability.

We got back around 1:30, dropped off the seeds at the tree nursery, and bid each other farewell. We said that we would do another seed collection run in a month or so, but given the country's current situation it seemed silly to be planning so far ahead.

I went home for lunch. On my way home, I called another volunteer to find out what was going on. At this point in the day, the police strikes were the big news.

I went home to learn more and parked myself on my neighbor's couch in front of his TV. As the afternoon wore on, there wasn't much new news coming out. A group of people marched through town cheering support of the government, and some of my neighbors played a war drum all day (I think they were practicing for the high school marching band, but the drum definitely made it seem that much more suspenseful).

I watched the news all afternoon and night until I went to bed. At that point, the president was still in the hospital.

When I woke up at 5:30, the first thing I did was check the news. I read about the daring police raid that freed the president and about his address to the country upon his liberation. It was still dark out at this time.

I didn't know how my town would respond to the situation. Would everyone stay inside and reflect on what had happened the last day? Would they go about their lives as normal? Would they just take the day off?

Life just went on.

At about 6:00, the morning milk man passed by. A few minutes later, the boiled corn and humitas saleswoman came through. Then, it was the fresh fish guy.

Aside from the fact that the schools were out and the military was patrolling the streets instead of the cops, life was normal. I went into the municipal office later in the day, and everybody had recovered.

All the talk was about that night's beauty pageant and the weekend's fiestas. Nobody was dwelling on the police strike.

A disturbing story from the newspaper

While reading the newspaper a few weeks ago, I came across a very troubling story. If you would like the Spanish version, you can find it here. If your Spanish isn't strong enough, don't worry. I paraphrase it below.

Headline: They took him from downtown to leave him in a landfill

German, a 72-year old homeless man, was living on the streets of downtown Machala. He had been living this way for many years. One day, a few weeks back, a municipal employee put German in a city car and told German "I'm taking you to a better place." He actually just drove him to middle of some banana fields on the outskirts of town and left him in a pile of garbage.

German pleaded with the workers and asked them how he would get back to the city. They just drove away.

Not knowing what to do next, he stayed in that spot for several hours. Eventually a police car stopped. He asked them to take back to the city but they refused. Instead, they just dropped him at the outskirts of another outlying neighborhood.

The municipal worker who initially "relocated" German to the banana fields said he didn't want the homeless person "affecting the decoration or revitalization of the city." The city worker continued "we don't have the intention to do harm to nobody. ... Machala doesn't have indigents that are from Machala. They are always from other places." He said that he planned on dropping the homeless man in El Guabo or Huaquillas or some other town so that he wouldn't hurt the image of Machala.

Once he was discovered on the outskirts of town, German was taken in by social services. He was given a shower and a hot meal at a city councilman's house before heading off to a hospital and then on to a senior citizen's facility.

The city worker who decided to leave the man in the banana fields was suspended for one month without pay, and his actions were condemned by the municipality. I heard one report that said he carried out the act because he had not been paid for several months.

¡Happy Flag Day!

On this day in 1860, the color scheme for the Ecuadorian flag was officially adopted. To this day, September 26th is an important one in the national calendar.

Every school holds a formal ceremony called Juramento a La Bandera ("Swearing to the flag"). During the ceremony, the students in the oldest grade swear allegiance to the flag. Various speakers explain the significance of each color band. Take note that the yellow band on the flag is twice as wide as the other ones.

Yellow represents the country's natural wealth. Blue represents the ocean (and the sky). Red represents the blood and sacrifices made in the country's fight for freedom.



In the weeks leading up to the ceremony, the students practice marching so that they can get the steps down in time for the big day. And the job of holding the flag is a coveted one. The responsibility is given to the student with the highest grades (a kind of valedictorian, if you will).



Now, to finish the narrative of the Ecuadorian flag. If you look at the official flag, it doesn't just contain the three color bands. It also has a seal in the middle. This was added in the year 1900. To my knowledge, there is no holiday to commemorate the adoption of the seal on the flag.

If the Ecuadorian flag reminds you of the Colombian or Venezuelan flags, that is because they are based on the same design. After Simon Bolivar led the revolutions in South America, the three countries all belonged to the Gran Colombia. As an homage to the revolutionaries who inspired the struggle for independence, the countries adopted designs similar to the flag of Gran Colombia. The differences between the three are that the Ecuadorian flag has the seal of arms, the Venezuelan flag has stars, and the Colombian flag just has the tricolor bands.

Gusanito

We are entering the heart of fiesta season in Arenillas. The neighborhood celebrations are behind us as the entire city unites for its two main parties. This week, the fiestas partronales will kick off. They last for about ten days. Then everybody will spend the next three weeks gearing up for the fiestas de cantonizacion (celebrating the city's birthday), which start at the beginning of November.

The shift to municipal fiestas means a few things:

• Official work gets put on the back burner as the party-planning committee takes over
• Class gets replaced by marching band practice
• Beauty pageant pictures in the newspaper every week
• The arrival of the gusanito



Run by a group of Ecuadorian carnies, the gusanito (literally means "worm") is an amusement ride that appears at fiestas throughout the country. The worm squirms and swerves through the streets, offering the thrill of riding a reggaeton-blasting, light-flashing multipede around town.

It arrives a few days before the party gets going and sets up near the epicenter of fiesta activity. Then it skips town the day after the festivities come to a close. I have actually seen the full gusanito driving down the main coastal highway on its way to another town's fiestas. The image of the carny family, with all of its belongings stored in the various cars of the gusanito on its way to another gig is quite entertaining.

Just as entertaining as it is to see the entire gusanito family rolling down the Ecuadorian equivalent of I-75 is seeing the head car of the gusanito running errands in town. This morning, I caught the gusanito's head at the market.



Although I have yet to experience the thrill of the gusanito first-hand, it on my list of things to do before my service ends. Its location on the to-do list is right between drinking fresh goat milk and midnight fishing in the mangrove.

As we head to the heart of fiesta season, I should get plenty of chances to cross it off my to-do list.

For $4.35 today at the market ....

Four pounds of sweet potato
Four pounds of yucca
Two pounds of tomato
Two pounds of red onion
Two cucumbers
Four lemons
Two cloves of garlic

How much would that run me in the States?

It's hard to get a good knish in Arenillas

Unless you make it yourself.



Last week, I made my first foray into the world of flaky dumplings. I, and my stomach, would call knish night quite successful. I think we'll do it again soon.

Trapped

When I arrived at the all girls elementary school a couple of days ago for an AREvista meeting, there was quite a bit of commotion.

In contrast to the boys elementary school down the street, things at the girls school are much more disciplined. But when I walked in, the girls were out of their classroom.

That's because they couldn't get in their classroom.

Before the school day began, some of the early-arriving students were horsing around. In the course of their playing, they slammed the door to their classroom shut. The janitor came by with the key to open the door, but the key broke, trapping for girls in the room.

Apparently, there is only one copy of the key. And there is no other way out of the room, as the windows are surrounded by steel bars.

The four students were locked in the room for two and half hours until the locksmith came by.

Immediately upon being let out, they all ran to the bathroom.

Where is Hank Hill?

To refill my kitchen gas tank only costs $1.60. But that only takes into account the monetary value the Ecuadorian government places on its heavily subsidized gas.

That $1.60 doesn't take into account headaches, frustration, cold meals, and lost time involved in navigating this bureaucratic nightmare.

My gas tank ran out three weeks ago. I finally got a refill a couple of days ago.

(To go directly to my struggles in replacing the gas tank, skip the next two paragraphs)

Gas tanks are a very heavily regulated industry in Ecuador for a variety of reasons. Although Ecuador is an OPEC nation, it doesn't have sufficient refining capacity to serve the needs of its citizens. So, most of the cooking gas tank gas is imported. Apparently there is some kind of issue with the shipments now because there are gas shortages throughout the country.

The other problem is much more local. Ecuador subsidizes the gas tank prices. Peru doesn't subsidize (or doesn't subsidize as much). This creates an arbitrage opportunity for people who live near the border. The government has tried to crack down on this by placing the military in charge of gas distribution and making sure that each gas purchase is officially registered so that no one is stockpiling.

When my gas tank ran out, I went to the local gas distributor to change the tanks, but they were closed. I tried this the next day, but it was the same story.

In the meantime, one of my neighbors let me borrow his gas tank.

On my third attempt, they told me that they were out of gas, but that I should come back the next day with my gas tank and a copy of my ID.

I did that, except they were already out of gas by the time I arrived.

So on my fifth attempt, the stars finally appeared to have aligned. I had my ID. They had gas tanks. When it was my turn in line, they asked me for something that would certify me as a resident of Arenillas. I showed them my ID. They said it wasn't good enough. I had to go to the local government office and get a signed document, attesting to my residence.

I go to the office, but they tell me that they can't do anything for me until the president of my neighborhood certifies me as a resident.

The president of my neighborhood is a doctor who practices in another city. He doesn't get back to Arenillas until 7:00 p.m., which is about when I get to his house.

Ian: Necesito un certificado que dice que vivo en esta ciudadela para que pueda conseguir un tanque de gas.
Presidente: Mejor que consigas algunas peladas.

(or for the direct translation)

Ian: I need to get a certificate that says I live here so I can get a gas tank.
Prez: Better that you get yourself a couple of broads.

He says that he'd like to help but he needs the secretary of the neighborhood to prepare the document.

I head to her house. She works in another city and doesn't get home until 10:30, which is well past my bed time. I leave my papers at her house and pick them up in the morning.

I pick up the papers and notice that the secretary had forgotten to sign them. I get the president's signature that night and leave the document at the secretary's house to pick it up the next day and take it over to the government office.

Unfortunately, the government's representative was out of the office. I would have to wait over the weekend. Monday morning, I swung by the government office, picked up the paper I need, and headed to the gas distributor. Much to my surprise, they had gas.

I paid the $1.60 and changed my tank. Now was that so hard?

Hey, prehistoric forest

Yesterday, I took a trip up to the Puyango Petrified Forest. It contains one of the largest collections of petrified wood in the world and is just a couple of hours from my site.

Obviously, I had to go check it out at some point. But knowing that it's been there for millions years and probably wasn't going to change too much in my two years here, I was in no particular rush to get out there.

But it was definitely worth the visit.

The wood in the forest is between 60 million to 120 million years old. Petrified wood is fossilized wood. As the tour guide tried to explain to me: The lava flow from volcanic activity at the time (There's no active volcanoes in the vicinity. Don't worry, mom.) covered the forests. The lava buried the trees, and all the organic matter in the trees was converted into petrified wood. At one point in its history, the area was also covered by ocean because there are shellfish fossils.

The largest piece in the forest is this fifteen meter trunk that has naturally broken into several pieces.



It should be mentioned that the forest has only been a protected area for about twenty years now. Before it was declared a protected area, there was quite a bit of pillaging that occurred. Many residents in the area, and some in my site, have pieces of the petrified wood in their homes.

In addition to the petrified wood, the park also contains some pristine dry tropical forest and some of its rare tree species. The most majestic of those rare species is the Pretino. These trees are babies compared to the petrified ones. They're only 120-150 years old.



It is related to the previously fawned-over ceibo (part of the bombacacae family). Whereas the ceibo flower is white, the pretino gives off a pink/red flower. This should be happening in the next month. I will try to snap a picture of that.



Each ring signals about ten years of growth.

Richard, do I have a mark on my trunk?

That's not a tandem

It is clear that my neighbors do not understand what a tandem bicycle is.

From what I can gather, a tandem bicycle is one bike in which there are two seats and both riders pedal.

When my neighbors decide to go for a tandem bike ride down the street, they opt to tie two bikes together with a rope so that the lead bike is pulling and the back bike is just going along for the ride.

The guy on the back bike doesn't pedal at all. (I actually think his bike was broken, which was the impetus for this activity). The lead bike must provide enough momentum for the back bike to maintain its balance.

As you can imagine, the lead bike struggled to provide enough momentum to power both bikes. It ended in a crash every time.

I think of it as a combination of a tow truck and water skiing, except that instead of falling into water my neighbors are crashing onto the street.

I just hope these kids never get a hold of any copies of Jackass because they really don't need any ideas. These are the same kids that thought it was a good idea to see how hard they could tug on the power lines.

A whale of a time

It's humpback whale season in Ecuador.

You are probably thinking one of two things after reading that line.

1. I already knew that.
2. I had no idea Ecuador had whales.

Well, trust me. Ecuador does have whales.

They follow the Pacific Ocean currents up the South American coast in search of warm water. Then they hang out off the Ecuadorian coast for a few months to mate before following the currents across the Pacific Ocean toward Asia.



The whales congregate near the town of Puerto Lopez, which is about eight hours up the coast from my site. Whale season is from June to September, and I decided to take a brief mental health break to go check out these mammals.

The pictures that I have here don't really do a good job of showing the sheer awesomeness of the whales, but they are what my camera would capture.




The whale-watching tour also included snorkeling and a bird-watching hike at Isla de la Plata. Before heading out on the boat, they gave us a piece of Palo Santo wood to chew on.

Apparently, the tourist stomach and the ocean waves don't get along. The locals claim that chewing Palo Santo wood will help one's stomach get over the rough water.

I don't know if it is true or not. But I chewed it anyway.

There might be some scientific proof to this, but I contend that the tourist is so preoccupied with the horrible taste and aftertaste of wood that they forget about their stomach issues.



As I mentioned above, part of the tour included a bit of snorkeling, which was very cool. Tons of fish. Tons of colors. Tons of fun.



There was one slight issue with my snorkeling equipment, though. Once I got into the water, I noticed that the breathing tube was letting a lot of water into my mouth. It wasn't entering from above. Apparently, the seal on the bottom of the tube wasn't completely sealed off.

I'm no expert on the whole snorkeling thing but I know that the tube is very important. So I swam back to the boat and explained this to the captain, who obviously doesn't quite understand the concept of customer service.

Ian: The tube is letting in too much water.
Captain: You are going to have to deal with it.

It would have been quite funny if he told me "no pasa nada," but he didn't. I figured it out, although it was not nearly as comfortable as I would have liked.



The other part of the tour included bird-watching on Isla de la Plata. The bird species on the island are similar to what you would see on the Galapagos Islands. There were two species of boobies (red-footed and blue-footed) along with frigates.

On the road to Puerto Lopez, you drive through one of the best-named cities in Ecuador: Jipijapa (pronounced Hippy Hoppa). Compared to its name, the town is a letdown. The area is probably most famous for its straw, which is used to make Panama Hats.

Drunk cattle?

Before I begin with the post, I will give you a very brief Spanish lesson. In Spanish, the word for drunk is borracho.

One of the more common shrubs in the dry tropical forest is borrachera.

The similarity is not by coincidence.

If eaten by livestock, the borrachera can cause a lack coordination, weakness, or apathy. (I guess it depends if the cow is a active drunk or a lazy drunk. Luckily, it doesn't say anything about the angry drunk cow. That could be bad.)

Unfortunately, I couldn't find a good YouTube, but people here like to laugh whenever someone mentions borrachera.



Supposedly, it doesn't have the same effects on humans, although it does have some medicinal uses. According to a book I found about the medicinal properties of local plants, one can use the borrachera to reduce fevers associated with respiratory and urinary infections. It can also apparently help combat ulcers, diabetes, and gonorrhea. If you have a toothache, the plant's fiber can reduce the pain.

The plant grows wild around here, displaying its pretty flower most of the year. In wet years, the flower is much bigger and the plant can be more than 10 meters long. In dry years, the plant and flower are much smaller.

Reforestar: Lost without translation

The Spanish verb "reforestar" means "to reforest" in English.

To you, the Hearyoni reader who probably has a good grasp of the English language, this makes sense. Reforesting means "replant with trees; cover again with forest."

There used to be forest. For one reason or another, that forest isn't there anymore. So you are planting trees to restore the area to its forested state.

My problem with the Spanish word is that its intuitive meaning for an English speaker is lost on someone who doesn't understand English. "Forest" is not a word in Spanish.

When someone says they are "reforestando," they are typically just planting one or two species of trees that they plan on harvesting for timber in ten years. While it is important that they do plant trees, I wouldn't describe their activities as reforestation (especially because it is with the intent to deforest the land at some point). These are tree plantations, not forests.

The Spanish word for forest is "bosque."

When you ask someone here what a "bosque" is they will describe a forest - with a diversity of trees and animals. They don't think of single-specie tree plantations.

In my work at the tree nursery, I frequently find myself talking to clients about what they are planting. Most of the time, they come in and say they want to "reforestar." I ask them which species of trees they would like to plant. Most of the time it's teak - a tree that is not native to this part of the world that is only planting to harvest the wood.

The nursery also offers a variety of native tree species, and I ask the customers if they would like any of those. They say that they take too long to be worth anything.

If the Spanish word for "reforestation" related to the Spanish word "bosque" the perception of what it means to reforest might be a little different.

(I'm currently reading a book about the history of the Oxford English Dictionary, so the meaning of words is on my mind.)

A little bit about the Virgen del Cisne

In my previous post, I said that we are in the middle of the fiestas of the Virgen del Cisne. It has come to my attention that you, the hearyoni reader, might not be quite familiar with these festivities.

The main celebration and pilgrimage associated with these fiestas occurs in the province of Loja (east of El Oro). But because there is a large population of immigrants from Loja in El Oro, the fiestas are also commemorated here.

A little bit about the history of the fiestas.

El Cisne is a small town in the province of Loja founded in 1550. Later in the 16th century, the residents of El Cisne traveled to Quito to ask a sculptor for an image of the Virgin of Guadalupe to place in their sanctuary. With the statue in tow, the residents of El Cisne returned home. (FYI: We're not talking about the Virgin of Guadalupe from Mexico. This is the Virgin of Guadalupe from Caceres, Spain)

In 1594, a terrible drought hit the region. The authorities in Quito said that the residents should abandon the village and relocate. They took the statue with them. On their journey to their new village. From the moment they arrived in their new hamlet, it was beset by violent storms that uprooted trees, knocked over homes, and ruined their harvests.

The residents took this as a punishment from the Virgin for having removed her from El Cisne. They disobeyed the government's orders and returned to their hometown. In the end, the government decreed that the the town should always be populated.

It is very popular for people to make a pilgrimage on foot to El Cisne at this time of year. Some travel hundreds of kilometers, on foot through the Andes, to reach El Cisne. Others travel in bus.

For people who don't make the pilgrimage, they mark the occasion with several masses (I believe there is a mass for nine consecutive nights), a vaca loca, the burning of the castillo, bailes, and other traditional fiesta activities.

Live la vaca loca

They were celebrating the fiestas of the Virgen del Cisne last week in Arenillas last week.

Among other things, this meant that there would be the vaca loca. Now, I could use this space to explain the vaca loca. Or I could let the following YouTube video explain it.



It is kind of a "you can't have one without the other." Whenever they have a vaca loca, it is accompanied by the burning of the castillo.

It's starting to make sense

In recent blog posts, I have remarked about how culturally acceptable it is for people to go to the bathroom anywhere.

It might be out the window of the bus. It might be in the middle of a group of people waiting to get onto the bus. It might be on the wall that says "Don't pee on this wall."

For many months now, I have wondered where this freedom to go where you please comes from. I finally answered that question this weekend.

I took a day trip up to Zaruma, a colonial gold-mining town about two hours into the mountains from my site. It might be a relatively short journey, but it almost feels like a different country. The architecture is different (There is a distinct architectural style). The scenery is different (Mountains). The climate it different (Not hot). The pace of life is different (Not "in your face").

Given how different Zaruma is from my site, I was surprised by a statue in the central park.



That is a statue of a child going to the bathroom in the middle of the park. Even in a town as different as Zaruma, they glorify public urination (At least they make an art of it).

I asked some people around town why there is a statue of a kid peeing in the park. Apparently, it has been there for over a hundred years. They told me that it was brought over by some Europeans.

I did some further research on similar statues and discovered that there is a very famous statue in Brussels, Belgium. I imagine that the statue in Zaruma tractes its inspiration to that one.

I wonder how the presence of such a statue in the central park of a town such has Zaruma has affected the acceptability of public urination in Ecuador. If the statue was, in fact, donated by a European country or organization over a hundred years ago, people here might have thought that a statue of a person urinating in the central park accurately reflects cultural norms in that country.

If they associated cultured Europe with public urination, they might think that using the toilet or going out of site is the practice of bumpkins.

I only propose this hypothesis based upon my experiences in Ecuador. What people know of the United States they take from portrayals in popular culture. I have been asked if there is actually countryside in the United States (many think it all looks like New York). I have been asked if the United States is all night clubs and discos. I am still asked if I knew Michael Jackson.

Based on these experiences, I might be inclined to conclude that the statue has something to do with the propensity to pee in public.

Ian's weekly home appliance update

My fridge should just start its own blog.

It is breaking faster than I can blog about (granted, I am blogging relatively slowly).

We last left off the saga of my fridge a few of weeks ago. After the repairman brought his blow torch into my kitchen and borrowed my gas tank, she was up and running again.

I was happy. I asked the repairman if he thought my fridge would break anytime soon.

He said he didn't think so.

Have I previously mentioned on this blog how Ecuadorians don't like to say "no" and are very indirect?

Well, if I haven't, I will do so now.

They don't really like to say "no" to you and are very indirect. When he told me that my fridge would not break very soon, I took that to mean that my fridge should work well for the rest of my service.

I guess we had different understandings of what the word "soon" means.

So when I came knocking on his door July 31st, he didn't look surpised to see me. I explained the problem, which was quite similar to the problem it was experiencing two weeks earlier.

He said he would come by the next day or so to check it out. Obviously, it took him about three days. He checked it out and confirmed what I had suspected.

It was broken with a similar problem. I asked him if it was worth continuing to go through this same hassle, if it was actually possible to have this thing fixed and functioning for the rest of my service.

He said that it should be possible and that he would take it to his repair shop. Except that he couldn't do it very soon because he was going to visit his daughter who is in university.

So I waited five days for him to come back. I asked him if he could come by my house, and he told me he'd be by Monday morning at 8:00 a.m. By 9:00 a.m., I was beginning to doubt that he would show up.

I headed over to his house and caught him as he was leaving. Apparently, he had to go file complaints with the electrical company and the water company and had decided to delay visiting my house until the afternoon.

I told him that wasn't going to work because I wasn't going to be home for the rest of the day, which was a true story. By now, I think he understood that I would like my refrigerator repaired. We moved the fridge from my house to his.

Apparently, it will be ready on Thursday.

The back of the bus

The ride from Machala to my site take a bit more than an hour, and one should never be surprised by anything that happens on the bus. (No rules!!!!!)

The bus employee might decides to arbitrarily change the fare. Clowns might hop on the bus to do a comic routine. A one-toothed man might strum his one-string guitar. Another guy might be hawking the medicinal benefits of noni.

Sometimes, these occur simultaneously.

I would say that you should expect the unexpected, but I don't know if it's possible to expect something unexpected to happen because if you had expected it to happen than it wouldn't be unexpected.

Last week, on the ride back to my site from Machala, I was sitting in the back of the bus with another volunteer. About ten minutes into the hour-long ride, I hear some commotion across the aisle.

A six-year old and his mom are sitting there. He was whining a little bit and squirming around. By now, this commotion had drawn the attention of everybody else sitting nearby.

The mom lifts her child so he is standing on the window seat and props open the window. And he starts peeing.

Everyone in the area let out a collective moan.

I was equally disgusted by the fact that this kid's mom thought it was fine for her son to piss out the window. What I thought was interesting was that everybody else found that weird.

Based on my experiences, it is acceptable for children in Ecuador to pee toward the public. Instead of walking a few more meters to get to a bathroom or just cozying up to a wall, some Ecuadorian parents encourage their children to pee into the street. At least, this child was aiming away from the aisle of the bus.

The kid didn't even have to hold it in, at this time. He had another, just as convenient, option for going to the bathroom - actually going to the bathroom. He was sitting across the aisle from the bathroom door. His mom could have just as easily moved her child across the aisle and into the bathroom.

But then again, common logic doesn't always apply on the bus.

The bus keeps on rolling down the road. Another half hour passes, and that same child starts making a scene again. He doesn't have the "I have to go to the bathroom" face. He is showing more of a "I'm about to blow chunks" face.

Then came the dry heaves. Obviously, his mom told him not to vomit in her direction. She urged him to aim into my lap. Luckily, the heaves stayed dry until they got off the bus.

While all of this is happening, a couple sitting in the last row, one row behind the mother and son, seem completely oblivious to everything. As the child is pissing out the window or on the verge of vomitting, the two lovebirds in the back seat are too obsessed with each other to notice. They were making out for pretty much the entire bus ride.

And I'm sitting directly two feet away from all of this.

The only reaction I could think of is "asi es la vida" and go back to trying to read my book.

The guarantee fairy

I lived on my own for about eight months before I got a blender. I didn't really think I was missing much.

One of the nearby volunteers left, and he left behind a blender. Who would turn down a free blender?

I inherited the appliance and quickly realized what I had been missing. It has really made pasta sauce and shakshuka-making much quicker. I have started making hummus on a regular basis. Although I like to eat my fruits whole, I have learned to appreciate fresh juice on occasion.

Well, Friday afternoon, I overestimated the power of my inherited blender while trying to make a batch of hummus. The motor stopped functioning.

The next day, I took it into the local electrician, who told me that it would cost more to fix the blender than to buy a new one.

I was already planning on going to Huaquillas Saturday afternoon anyway, so I just added "new blender" to my shopping list. (Huaquillas is the town on the border between Ecaudor and Peru. You can pretty much find anything there, including one of the finest statues in Ecuador.)

Blenders come in a few varieties - nice and economical. The nice blender will run you about 50 bucks and is a decent blender. You can find an economical one for about 15. I was looking for something on the nicer end of economical (something would last me for eight months).

When you are searching for something in this price range, you must be wary of vendors trying to convince you that their cheap, bad blender is just a cheap blender. And I don't have to tell you that the type of people you find working at Latin American border town electronic stores are not the most honest salesmen in the world.

After checking into a few different stores, I found a shop tucked away on the main street. The salesman was wearing a button-down shirt with the top three buttons undone. He was finishing up a lunch of soup, chicken, and a few pieces of tomato while watching a soccer game on one of the TVs he was also selling. He was also sweating profusely.

He had a few different models of blender on top of his display case. You had the top-of-the-line model, the end-of-the-line model (which looked a lot like my blender that had broke), and a third style that looked a little bit better.

The brand name was Forever, which I really enjoyed (I couldn't find any Ericksons). After engaging in a bit of bargaining, I was able to get a twenty percent discount. Then I explained to the salesman why I was in the market for a new blender.

Salesman: If this blender breaks, you can bring it to me.
Ian: What will you do if I bring it to you?
Salesman: I will get it fixed at no charge (I thought he was going to tell me "laugh in your face")
Ian: So, you guarantee that this blender will not break on me.
Salesman: If it breaks, you bring it back here with the receipt.

It was at this moment that I thought of Tommy Callahan.

Tommy: Let's think about this for a sec, Ted. Why would somebody put a guarantee on a box? Hmmm, very interesting.
Customer: Go on, I'm listening.
Tommy: Here's the way I see it, Ted. Guy puts a fancy guarantee on a box 'cause he wants you to feel all warm and toasty inside.
Customer: Yeah, makes a man feel good.
Tommy: 'Course it does. Why shouldn't it? Ya figure you put that little box under your pillow at night, the Guarantee Fairy might come by and leave a quarter, am I right, Ted?
[chuckles until he sees that Ted is not laughing]
Customer: [impatiently] What's your point?
Tommy: The point is, how do you know the fairy isn't a crazy glue sniffer? "Building model airplanes" says the little fairy; well, we're not buying it. He sneaks into your house once, that's all it takes. The next thing you know, there's money missing off the dresser, and your daughter's knocked up. I seen it a hundred times.
Customer: But why do they put a guarantee on the box?
Tommy: Because they know all they sold ya was a guaranteed piece of shit. That's all it is, isn't it? Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I will. I got spare time. But for now, for your customer's sake, for your daughter's sake, ya might wanna think about buying a quality product from me.
Customer: [pause] Okay, I'll buy from you.
Tommy: Well, that's...
Tommy, Richard Hayden: ...What?

For some reason, I thought that this blender, whether or not it breaks, was definitely a step up from the one that had recently crapped out on me. I also have a guarantee from this vendor, which could mean one of two things.

1) It's a quality product and lasts me for the rest of my service.
2) At some point in the next eight months, the blender breaks and I take it back to the vendor who will either help me fix it or laugh in my face.

The first one is definitely preferable, but the second one will obviously provide quality blog material.

---

When the salesman was pitching the blender, he emphasized how one can use this smaller attachment to make mustard and mayonnaise.



I saw the utility in this attachment for other sauces, but who makes mustard or mayonnaise?

I have been making homemade tahini for the hummus and definitely see the potential in the smaller attachment for that.

Resume booster?

If you have any questions about puppet management and creation, you can ask me.

I am now certified in the subject — after last week's ten-hour course.

This month is month of the arts in Ecuador. This means that there are a bunch of programs going on throughout the country to promote the arts - in a variety of forms.

So a troupe came through town last week promoting, promoting puppets made out of recycled materials. I thought this sounded interesting. Plus, I'll take any opportunity to receive further certification (This will go on my resume between handwashing and beekeeping).

The training was free and open to the public, so you got a variety of age groups. There was some younger kids, a few high schoolers, some school teachers, and a couple of Peace Corps Volunteers.

The entire week build up to each partificpant performing on the final day of the workshop.

After the first day was spent getting to know a bit about puppets, we devoted the second day to collecting reusable materials that we would use to make our puppets. On the third day, the instructors divided us into groups of three. We each chose a fable to perform on the last day. My group chose "The Lion and the Rat."

I wasn't very familiar with this story, so I had to do some independent research on the subject. To make a short story shorter: A rat wakes up a sleeping lion in the jungle. The lion is angry and threatens to eat the rat. The rat pleas for forgiveness, saying that one day he will help the lion out. A few days later, the lion is trapped by hunters, and the rat helps the lion out of the predicament.

It was my job to make the rat. We spent the next few days making our pieces. My rat was made out of a can of garbanzo beans, the top of a 20 oz. bottle, an eight of clubs playing card, two pieces of paper, broom bristles, and some carpet. I named him Fausto, because I thought he looks like a Fausto.



(If you buy ten sticks of hot glue gun glue, they give you a ridiculous hat.)

Friday was the big day. And I was kind of nervous because I hadn't performed since I appeared as the Chinese immigrant in "Anything Goes" in tenth grade. But it all turned out well.

I just remembered what the professor had been telling us:

• Remember that your character has to walk onto the stage. He just can't appear out of nowhere.
• Only the birds and insects can fly, everybody else has to walk along the top of the curtain.
• Don't take your eyes off you puppet. If you take your eyes off your puppet, you lose focus.
• Many of the items that we think are garbage can be used to make rats. (This is true because if you leave food scraps lying around the house.....)

And because of that, I'm now certified.

(You wonder why there haven't been blogs lately? I've been too busy playing with puppets.)

Fridge fixed

When I left off, the refrigerator repair had finally shown up at my house - just seven hours late.

He said that it wasn't my fault that my fridge broke. It was because, in Ecuador, electicity can very unreliable and often comes and goes as it pleases. These surges of energy are not very good for refrigerators.

Luckily, my refrigerator guy knows how to fix this problem. He looked around my kitchen and saw the gas tank I use for my stove. He asked if I would let him use the tank. I had no idea why but, sure, as long as it's in the name of fixing my fridge.



He runs out to his car to get some tool, chief among them was a blow torch. He hooked up the torch to my gas tank and started welding (soldar).



He got about fifteen minutes into fixing my fridge when he reconnected my gas tank to my stove and started packing up his stuff.

Ian: Is my fridge fixed? That was fast.
Repair man: Not yet. It's getting late. I'll come back tomorrow.

Keep in mind that he showed up at 4:00 in the afternoon when he said he would be at my house at 9:00.

The next day, he showed up on time and worked throughout the morning. When I came back to my house for lunch, he was still there but the fridge was starting to cool down.

He came back later in the afternoon to make sure everything was still working. Success.

---

Of any week for my fridge to stop working, this was probably one of the worst ones. On Friday, I had made mass quantities of food for shabbat dinner, assuming the the majority could be stored away in my fridge and heated up in my over for meals throughout the week. I figured that I could eat three meals of leftovers per day until Wednesday, at least.

That was the plan until Saturday morning when I went into the fridge to finish the previous night's dessert crisp and discovered it was room temperature. Thankfully, my neighbor's let me store my food in their fridge for the week.

Unfortunately, the schools were on vacation, and my neighbor's took advantage of the time off to travel a little bit with their kids, as opposed to their "home all day" schedule when there are classes.

I adjusted to this uncertainty by always having some food on hand to make an easy meal, just in case they weren't home. Obviously, it wasn't as easy as reheating leftovers.

Losing the waiting game

My fridge broke, again. This time, it wasn't my fault.

The wires that connect my house with my kitchen were in rough condition and finally bit the dust. The electrician came by and repaired the power issue. But another one remained.

My refrigerator did not take well to the comings and goings of electricity and decided to shut down.

The fridge made this decision at some point on Friday night, and I realized Saturday morning. I stored all my refrigerated foods at my neighbor's house and set out in search of the repairman.

One man in town has a reputation for being the only capable technician in town. He fixed up my fridge last time it stopped being cold, and I trust his work.

After three days of trying to find him, I finally caught up with him on Monday at lunch. He told me that he'd stop by later in the afternoon. He came into my house without any tools. He scoped around for 15 minutes, whistling a song the entire time. He said he had identified the problem and that he would come back on Wednesday morning at 9:00 a.m. to fix the problem.

I was waiting for him at 9:00 a.m. He never showed. I gave him the hora ecuatoriana. Still no sign.

In the States, you give a cable guy a three-hour time window to come by your house. Translating that into Ecuadorian time, that means he might show up in the next week. Luckily, I had something that cable and utilities companies would never give you - the man's home address.

So I decided to track him down and see why he didn't show up. I was talking to a fellow volunteer, Laurel, and she said that if I followed a repair guy to his house "in the US that might get you a restraining order."

Here, it's what I like to call accountability and the only way to get stuff done.

I posted a note on my door to the technician and headed to his house. An elderly woman answered the door.

Ian: I'm looking for the refrigerator repair guy.
Elderly woman: He's not home.
Ian: He told me he would be at my house at 9:00, but he hasn't showed up yet.
Elderly woman: (Laughing) He's so unreliable.
Ian: Does he have a phone number?
Elderly woman: We can't trust him with a phone. He loses everything.
Ian: Do you think he'll show up this morning?
Elderly woman: He might. Wait at your house all morning.
Ian: If he doesn't show up this morning, I'll come back here during lunch.

I went back home. I had so much to do around the house (e.g. laundry, clean the kitchen), but I couldn't do any of it because I wouldn't be within earshot of the door. I split time between a few episodes of Seinfeld, a few chapters of my book, and reheating some food that I had stored in my neighbor's fridge.

As soon as standard lunchtime struck, I was at his front door. He told me that he had forgotten and that he'd be at my house at 4:00 p.m.

He was there at 4:05, only seven hours late.

"Good" music

When the newspaper kids come to my house to learn how to use Photoshop and InDesign, they also if I have music on my computer. I open up iTunes, and they tell me that I don't have any "good" music.

Now, the newspaper kids and I have different understandings of what makes music good. My preferred music probably wouldn't be well-received at a discotec, whereas that's pretty much all the youth want.

After the "you don't have any good music" bit played out a few times, I asked them to make me a list of music that they would like to listen to when they are at my house so I could get what they want. I now have over 150 bachata songs, 175 reggaeton songs, 74 baladas de amor, and a good variety of other genres they enjoy (cumbia, vallenato, salsa, pop, etc).

By now, pretty much every kid who uses the computer is satisfied with the music selection. My iTunes collection is constantly changing. If the kids want to listen to a song, I want to make them happy so they continue learning how to use the programs.

Two days ago one of the kids came by with a few suggestions on how I could improve my iTunes library.

One of the songs he suggested was "El Dengue" by DJ Loko.

I had never heard of this song before, but having overcome El Dengue, I wanted to know what DJ Loko felt dengue sounded like.



The song does a nice job of expressing the ups and downs of the dengue. Its intermittent use of horns to show the intense headaches followed a brief lull to express how the disease hits use in waves.

If I were to critique the song, I would say that it doesn't really do an accurate job of representing the "everything tastes like chalk" aspect of the sickness or the "I feel as if I was just run over by a tractor" side of things.

While I don't know how that would be done musically, I know that DJ Loko's production is not it. But then again, if you were to accurately portray that in music, I don't think anybody would want to listen.

The dangers of working with cactuses

I spent this morning chopping off branches of cactus plants for a living fence we are building.

A word of caution when working with cacti: Always be aware of the spikes on the cactus, but don't forget about other risks. I learned that one the hard way.

The idea of a living fence is to make a barrier out of plants that people or animals wouldn't want to cross. We are making one of these in town and decided to make it out of cactus.

• It is a local species, so it would not be out of place in the botanical garden.
• Cactus has prickly things that hurt when you touch them.
• They are adapted to the dry season. You can plant them in the dry season, and they will you flourish.
• They are remarkably easy to reproduce.

The easiest way to propagate cactus is by chopping off a chunk of an existing cactus plant and planting that chunk in the ground. Unbelievably simple. Although I'm not sure if it works with all cactus species, it does with the local variety.



The first step was finding someone who had enough cactus on their property that wouldn't mind letting the us prune their plants for seedlings. One of my coworkers said that his neighbor, who lives on some hilly property near the river, has cactus coming out of his ears.

I went down there this morning with my machete to check it out. It didn't help that it rained last night, making the slope heading down toward the river. But I was wearing my work clothes and gardening gloves, so I didn't really care if I fell going down the hill, which happened repeatedly.

I spent a couple of hours chopping down cactus branches and putting them into a pile. It was a lot of fun. The cacti are on the side of a hill, and I had to crawl around the ground to get in better cactus-chopping position. I didn't get pricked because I have cat-like speed and reflexes and was wearing gloves.

Most of the cactus pieces that I took were ones that were lying on the ground and had already fallen off the plants. Well, little did I realize, cactus pieces weren't the only think lying around down there...

Apparently, my cactus seed search had bothered some hornets/wasps. They felt as if I had invaded their territory, which I probably did, and decided to go after my left elbow.

I couldn't really move very quickly because I was crawling underneath a bunch of cactus plants, and any miscalculated movement meant more stinging pain. I maintained my composure as much as I could and rolled to safety. I think I sustained about six stings on my elbow/upper arm (no cool swelling pictures because it didn't really swell up).

I regrouped and finished collecting cactus and lugging it up the hill. And my arm was sore for the rest of the afternoon and had a bit of a burning sensation, as if I had spent the entire day working with hot peppers, but nothing too serious.

But I just want this to be a warning that just because you have mitigated the effects of the cactus spikes that doesn't mean you eliminated all the risks.

Multipurpose rock

I wash my laundry on a concrete slab behind my house.

It has a faucet, drain, and flat surface where I can scrub my clothes.

All along I had been calling this a laundry rock.

I was wrong.

Last week, I was finishing my breakfast one morning when I heard a bird chirping. How pleasant, I thought. The birds had come to feast on the bread crumbs my landlord's wife leaves out every morning.

I heard the chirping again and noticed that it wasn't coming from my landlord's window. It was coming from my laundry rock.

I went to check what was going on. My neighbors were crowding around the laundry rock, holding a chicken in their hands.

Then, suddenly, no more chirping. Just blood dripping down the surface I wash my clothes on.

I had to run out the door, so I couldn't watch the clean-up effort or ask my neighbors any questions at the time. (And it's probably better that way)

This allowed me to reflect about what I had just witnessed and how I was going to handle my laundry situation going forward.

The whole chicken being killed thing isn't a big deal to me. The fact that they decided to perform the act where I wash my dirty underwear and socks made me think.

First off, who would kill a chicken where somebody puts their filthy clothes? Then I thought about some of the sanitary conditions of the local butcher shop and realized that my neighbor's set up was probably cleaner.

Then I considered whether this act would have any effect on how I do laundry for the remainder of my service. I don't think it will.

Any effort that I put into doing laundry is more about effort than results. I'm not exactly sure how much cleaner or less smelly my clothes are getting, but what matters is that I'm trying (and listening to some good podcasts). So a little diluted chicken blood on the drain? No pasa nada. Also, both of my neighbors have since done laundry on the same rock.

I asked a few other volunteers about what they would do in such a situation. And, unsurprisingly, my case is not unique. A couple of my friends recalled having their laundry rocks being used for dinner killing. Plus, I figure I encounter enough hazards that I really don't need to worry about traces of chicken blood on a surface that is exposed to quite a bit of soap and soapy water.

So I'm just going to move forward here and treat it as a learning experience - mostly opening my eyes to the possibilities of what I can do with that multipurpose rock.

Does anyone know a shokhet?